Now that you have your new four-legged family member home with you, you may start to realize some of the challenges that come with a puppy, including how to survive teething and nipping.

Puppies’ mouths are filled with about 28 teeny-tiny razors that seem to be attracted to your fingers or toes (especially when you’re sleeping, we bet!). Although an annoying behavior, this is something that’s completely normal for teething puppies and something you can train away.

Puppies get their baby teeth at a much younger age than human babies—at as early as two weeks old, while the puppies are still with their breeder and their litter, those mini daggers start to come in. As puppies grow, they explore their world with their mouths (and when they come home with you at two to three months of age, they’ll have a whole new world to explore).

When Do Puppies Teeth Fall Out?

At about three to four months of age, puppy teeth begin to fall out making room for his 42 adult teeth (fun fact: that’s about 10 more than people!). This process can be awfully painful for your pup—his gums will be sore (anyone who has ever cared for a teething baby knows how uncomfortable this can be).

Once your puppy is six months old, his baby teeth should have fallen out. If any remain, be sure to tell your veterinarian. They may need to be removed by a veterinary professional.

View a complete timeline of puppy teething here.

What Are The Symptoms of Puppy Teething?

You might notice him drooling a bit or even little spots of blood on his toys, both related to teething (though if you notice anything unusual, talk to your veterinarian since both symptoms could also be related to a more serious issue). During this process, which is undoubtedly uncomfortable and confusing for your puppy, he’ll look for items to chew as a way to soothe those sore gums. The best thing you can do for him at this stage is to provide him a safe outlet to chew to his little heart’s content.

It’s extremely important to monitor your puppy during play and check the toys periodically to ensure they aren’t falling apart. Your puppy should not be able to chew chunks off the toy or pull pieces of fiber or stuffing from them.

How to Stop a Puppy From Nipping

Puppies naturally nip at each other while playing, and sometimes they don’t realize how hard they’re able to do this without hurting the other dog. If they bite too hard, another dog will likely make a loud yelp sound, warning the puppy, “Hey, that hurt!” You can teach your puppy this as well by making a loud, high-pitched “OW” sound if he bites you. Then, make sure to give him a treat or verbal praise for backing off.

After teaching him that biting you is painful, let him know what is ok to bite or chew. If he starts nibbling at your fingers or toes while you’re playing with him, offer him a toy instead. If he continues to nip you, stop the play session so that he realizes that biting is not rewarded.

Never hit your dog or otherwise physically punish him. If your pet seems to be biting out of aggression (not during a play), speak to a veterinarian about ways to deal with that behavior.

How to Survive Puppy Teething

When your puppy is about three to four months old, his baby teeth will start shedding, making room for about 42 adult teeth to come in. This process is very uncomfortable for the puppy—his gums will be sore as his adult teeth break through, and he’ll want to chew anything—everything—that will soothe the pain.

Your job as a responsible owner is to give your puppy something he can chew on to help make this process a little more comfortable. And by doing so, you’ll be preventing your puppy from finding something on his own to chew, be it your husband’s favorite pair of shoes, your new couch, or your children’s toys.

The best toys to offer teething puppies are made of hard nylon or hard rubber (like a Kong), especially ones that can be filled with water and frozen, which will feel nice and cool on your puppy’s sore gums.

Now the bad news: This age is also the time your puppy will start to go through some hormonal changes that may cause him to act out and chew more often than usual. Make sure you provide him with plenty of toys and teach him, through positive reinforcement, that he’s only allowed to chew his own toys.

Caring for a Puppies Adult Teeth

Once your dog has all of his adult teeth in, it’s your job as a responsible owner to ensure that they stay pearly white. Begin a healthy-teeth routine by getting your puppy used to having his mouth and teeth touched at an early age. You can purchase dog-friendly toothbrush and toothpaste (an enzymatic product is recommended as it works both mechanically and chemically to remove plaque) at a local pet store. Do not use human toothpaste—it can make your dog sick if he swallows it.

Good luck with your new puppy and enjoy guiding him through his important time in his life. Before long, the thoughts of him as a nipping, chewing little monster will be something you look back on fondly.

-AKC.org

If you’ve recently welcomed a new puppy or dog into your life, you might have questions about having your pet spayed or neutered. Below are answers to some of the questions many people have about these common surgeries for dogs.

What is the Difference Between Spay and Neuter?

·         Spaying. A “spay,” or ovariohysterectomy, is a veterinary surgical procedure performed under general anesthesia. It involves removal of the female dog’s uterus and both ovaries through an incision made in the abdomen. A spay can also be performed laparascopically (usually with ovariectomies).

·         Neutering. Neutering, or castration, is the surgical removal of the male dog’s testes. Also performed under general anesthesia, it is a simpler surgery than a spay. An incision is made near the front of the scrotum, and then the testicles are removed through that incision.

Why Spay or Neuter Your Dog?

Here are three top reasons to spay or neuter:

·         Prevent unplanned puppies. If your female dog is unspayed, she will come into breeding season or “heat” for several weeks once or twice a year. Each time this happens, she’ll be very alluring to male dogs—who can smell the scent from long distances. This can bring unwanted canine visitors to your yard, which could result in a litter of unplanned puppies. Having a litter is expensive and involves a lot of time and energy on your part. The bitch will require veterinary care during pregnancy. Delivery can sometimes be difficult and can result in expensive surgery or the loss of the bitch or puppies. The puppies will also require veterinary care and shots after they are born. Also, finding good homes for puppies can be very difficult. Spaying and neutering is a responsible way to prevent accidental breeding resulting in unwanted puppies. Breeding should be left to responsible breeders who have an organized breeding plan and knowledge about canine genetics, and who breed dogs to preserve the breed’s best qualities for future generations.

·         Reduced health risks. Spaying or neutering can lead to a reduction in health risks for both male and female dogs. Unspayed females can develop a painful and life-threatening infection of the uterus called pyometra. Unspayed females are also at much higher risk of mammary tumors than are females who have been spayed. Neutering a male dog prevents testicular cancer and reduces the risk of other problems such as prostate disease. A neutered male dog also has less desire to roam so has less risk of getting poisoned, hurt in a dog fight, or hit by a car.

·         May help with behavior issues. As well as reducing roaming in male dogs, neutering can often (though not always) help to reduce or eliminate undesirable behaviors such as leg-lifting and mounting. Neutering can also decrease aggressive behavior in some dogs, especially if they are neutered before one year of age. Spayed females will also be less likely to roam.

At What Age Should A Dog Be Spayed or Neutered?

Spaying or neutering can be done as early as a few months old, dog owners should consult with their veterinarian to determine the best age to spay or neuter their pet. Many vets in the U.S. recommend spaying or neutering be done between 5 and 9 months of age. AKC’s Canine Health Foundation conducted research that indicates there may be long-term health benefits to spaying or neutering dogs after they have passed through puberty.

Many recommend for female puppies to be spayed before their first heat, which can occur as early as 5 months of age. Spaying before the first heat greatly lowers the risk of mammary tumors. (Females who are spayed after their first heat also continue to have reduced risk compared to unspayed females.) Neutering males before puberty may help prevent establishment of some behaviors such as marking and aggression.

The bottom line: Talk with your veterinarian about the best time to have your pet spayed or neutered.

What is the Recovery Time for Spaying or Neutering a Dog?

·         Spaying. After spay surgery, some clinics will want to keep your dog overnight, while others will let her go home on the same day. Your dog may have some post-surgery discomfort, and the veterinarian may provide pain medication to give after she comes home to help ease this. (Or she may act perky and bouncy, with no signs of discomfort—all dogs are different.) The clinic may send your dog home with a protective collar to keep her from licking the incision. She probably will need to have her activity restricted for 7 to 10 days while she heals. Your veterinarian may have you return for a follow-up visit to check on how well she has healed and to remove the stitches.

·         Neutering. If there are no complications or other health issues, male dogs can usually go home the same day of the procedure. The veterinarian will discuss with you any pain medication and after-care for your dog. He or she will probably recommend for your dog’s activity to be restricted for a few days while the incision heals. The clinic may send your dog home with a protective collar to help keep him from licking the incision. As with many surgeries, your veterinarian may have you return for a follow-up visit to check on how well he has healed and to remove the stitches. 

What Does it Cost to Spay or Neuter a Puppy or Dog?

The cost of spaying or neutering varies across the country, and depending upon the facility where the surgery is done, the procedure can be several hundred dollars. You shoud check with a trusted veterinarian to determine costs in your area.

Be sure to talk with your veterinarian for expert information on spaying or neutering your dog or puppy and to discuss any questions or concerns you may have.

-Akc.org

Positive reinforcement dog training, also referred to as force-free, reward-based, or clicker training, is a method that focuses on telling your dog when he is correct, instead of only pointing out what is incorrect.

This is done through a marker for correctness and timing, paired with a reward that is reinforcing to the dog. The marker can be a clicker, a simple device that when pressed makes a distinct, consistent sound, or a short word such as “yes,” “good,” or “smart.”

How To Give A Positive Reward-

The reward can be food of different values. For instance, a high-value treat might be premium, chewy, soft dog treats and a low-value treat might be kibble. Rewards can also be toys, praise, petting, or play, as long as the dog is motivated to work for it.

The correct behavior is “marked” as soon as it happens, and the reward follows the marker. The dog learns to associate the marker with the reward, producing positive outcomes in the dog’s behavior.

Here is a breakdown of what most dogs would define as their hierarchy of rewards:

·         At home with few distractions use low-value: kibble, carrots, ice cubes, green beans, or dry biscuits.

·         In your yard use medium-value: commercial training treats or meaty-type treats.

·         At the park use high value-treats, like premium chewy, soft dog treats with great flavors/smells such as peanut butter, salmon, and chicken.

Remember, this hierarchy is not fixed, and every dog won’t necessarily put the same value on these treats. Offer different types of food rewards to find out what your dog likes best, and build your dog’s reward hierarchy from there.

When in an unfamiliar environment among distractions, or when learning something new, your dog’s job is harder. Just like you would expect to get paid more for doing a more difficult job, your dog should be paid more, too!

When you are teaching something new or practicing in a new environment, increase the value of your treats. Be sure you always use small pieces of any treat. Treats should be pea-size or smaller, so your dog doesn’t get too full or spend more time chewing than paying attention to you.

The more often you reward your dog when he does what you ask, the more likely he’ll do what you ask in the future.

-AKC.org

How To Create House Rules For Your New Puppy  

You’re getting a new puppy! This is an exciting time, and it’s easy to daydream about all the fun things you’ll do with a dog in your life. There’s a lot you can do in preparation to make sure that your puppy’s introduction into the household goes smoothly. It starts by creating some house rules before your puppy even comes home.  

Why do you need puppy house rules? Dogs have their own natural behaviors, not all of which will be acceptable in their new household, and some behaviors could even be dangerous, destructive, or unhealthy. By creating a set of house rules, you’ll be letting your puppy know, right from the beginning, what is and is not acceptable. This is all new for the puppy: he has to adjust to his new family and new environment. If everyone in the family is consistent with rules, it will help him learn exactly what you expect of him, and what he can expect of you. The best way to do this is by creating house rules for your puppy ahead of time.  

How do I create house rules? All family members should sit down and figure out the house rules together. Just as when you define expectations for your kids, consistency is key, and if the whole family agrees on the rules, it’s more likely they’ll stick to them. Then you’ll need to decide which are the most essential rules. Obviously a 20-page manifesto of what your dog can and cannot do will be confusing for everyone, including the puppy. And it’ll make it much harder to stay consistent. So, what’s important to you?  

Some Rules to Consider:

1. Where will you allow the puppy to go in the house? Some people are comfortable with puppies having free range from the beginning. Others establish certain areas of the house as no-dog zones, such as the kitchen or a baby’s room. You may want the puppy to stay on one floor only. For many families, it’s easiest to keep the puppy to a small area of the house during house-training.

2. Will you let the dog on the furniture? Whatever you decide is OK for a tiny, adorable puppy may not be quite so great for a full-grown dog. It’s important to decide from the beginning what the rule is. You can teach him to stay off furniture completely, or you can train him to stay off the furniture unless you give a specific command. Or, you may decide he’s allowed to get on one specific piece of furniture, but not on others. And for some people, furniture is a perfectly acceptable place for the dog to hang out. Whatever your preference, make this rule before your puppy comes home.

3. Who in the family is responsible for what? It’s easy enough before the puppy comes home for family members to say they’ll always feed the dog or always take him out, but the reality is quite a different matter. Decide now, before he becomes part of the family, what each person’s responsibility is.

4. Decide on a morning routine. It can be hard enough coordinating schedules in the morning, especially in large families. Decide early on when your puppy will go out and be fed.

5. The same goes for an evening routine. Who feeds him and when? Does he get a long, leisurely after-dinner stroll or a quick trip outside to take care of business? Does he have a set bedtime or just go to sleep when he feels like it?

6. Where will the puppy sleep? Will he be crated downstairs, away from the bedrooms? Will he be crated in someone’s room? Will he sleep on a dog bed in the hall? Will he sleep wherever he wants? Even cuddled up next to you in bed? Many owners choose to crate the puppy at night, especially until he’s house-trained.

7. Are you going to allow your dog to get treats from the dinner table and get table scraps? Allowing your puppy to do this even once can set up his expectations, and he may hang around the table begging at every meal. Aside from the fact that human food may not be suitable for dogs, this habit can get annoying quickly. Decide what the family rule is before the puppy comes home.

8. What commands will you use for basic obedience, like sit, stay, and come? Make sure to establish basic commands and/or signals that everyone in the household will use consistently.

9. Should you let your puppy jump on people? As cute as a tiny puppy is when he greets you ecstatically, is this a behavior you want to encourage? In most cases, probably not. There’s nothing cute about almost getting bowled over by a 60-75 pound dog. If you want to teach your dog not to jump, start as soon he comes home. Once you’ve decided on the rules, post them in a visible place, like on the refrigerator, as a daily reminder to everyone of what their responsibilities are.  

House Rules for Humans:

House rules for your puppy aren’t the only rules that need to be set. Family members, especially children, must also be clear on safety and acceptable behavior. ·        

Children must learn how to handle a puppy. As adorable as they are, puppies aren’t new plush toys or playthings. Teach the kids not to pull the dog’s ears or tail or otherwise treat him like an inanimate object. ·        

Let the puppy eat in peace. Disturbing a dog when he’s eating can lead to anxiety and even food aggression. ·        

Do not hit the dog or yell at him. He doesn’t understand what’s he done wrong, it teaches him nothing, and will cause trust issues. ·        

Puppies are natural chewers and will probably go after anything left on the floor; he doesn’t know it’s your favorite shoe or new iPhone. For his safety (and your own sanity), pick it up and put it out of reach. Bringing a new puppy into the home is a real game-changer: the depth of your feelings for him and the joy he adds to your life may surprise you.

You can facilitate a happy homecoming and an easier adjustment if you create and stick to some basic house rules from the very beginning. Your relationship with your dog will thrive on sensible, consistent guidelines.

-AKC.org

Now that you have puppy-proofed your home, set up initial rules and boundaries, and picked up your pup from the breeder, it is time to introduce your new family member to his home.

Remember, this is a completely new and unfamiliar place for your puppy, so take things slowly, especially on the first day. But don’t worry, follow these tips and your puppy will adjust in no time.

Let Your Dog Adjust– Give your puppy time to adjust to his new home. He is bound to feel insecure and frightened by a change in environment, and he may be homesick for his mother or littermates. Show him his crate or bed, and where to find food and water. Be sure to take him around outside, as well, and show him where you will want him to do his business. Then let him explore his surroundings (under your supervision, of course).

Make Introductions– Introduce your dog to your household slowly. Many pairs of hands petting him at once will only frighten him. If you are introducing your puppy to children, make sure they know the right way to interact with a dog. Later, introduce him to neighbors, regular visitors, and other family members. Give your dog a sense of who your friends — and your dog’s friends — are. Introducing him to a variety of people will also be a great start to puppy socialization.

Introduce Other Pets– Other companion animals in your home should also be properly introduced to your new puppy. Don’t expect them to get along right away, and don’t try to force them to play together. Give them time to adjust to one another. House-train– Even though your puppy is new to the house, you will want to begin teaching him where to go to the bathroom right away. Make sure all members of the family enforce your chosen training method consistently. And of course, accidents happen, so have a procedure for cleanup.

Enforce Rules– From the beginning, teach your dog what is and is not appropriate behavior. If something is OK today, your puppy will think it is OK forever. Make sure that every member of the family enforces the house rules. Consistency is the key to having a well-behaved pet.

It will take some time for your new puppy to get used to his new home, so make sure you give him lots of love and attention. Then, you will be on your way to a happy, well-adjusted pup!

 -AKC.org

If your dog suddenly stops wagging its tail and its tail looks sad and droopy (even broken!) it might have Acute Caudal Myopathy. It’s commonly known by several terms:

Dead tail
Cold tail
Swimmer’s tail
Limber tail
Limp tail

Dead tail can occur in any breed with a tail. But the pointing and retrieving dogs are particularly susceptible to it.
What is it?
Dead tail results from overexertion of the tail muscles. It is an acute inflammation. The tail goes limp and the dog may have pain near the base of the tail. Almost all affected dogs will return to normal within a week.
The syndrome seems to be caused by muscle injury possibly brought on by overexertion, says Janet Steiss, DVM, PhD. Steiss is coauthor of the 1999 study on limber tail published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine. The study linked the condition to damage in muscles at the base of the tail. Researchers used electromyography (EMG), imaging, and tissue testing on dogs affected with limber tail and concluded that the coccygeal muscles near the base of the tail had sustained damage. The damage did not affect the tail bone, only the tail muscles. There was also no indication of joint and ligament damage so they concluded that dead tail is a muscular issue.
What causes it?

The exact cause is unknown but there are a few key risk factors:

1. Overexertion.
Vigorous activity within the previous 24 hours. Your dog may seem fine immediately following the activity but wakes up in pain the next day. Dead tail is not always associated with swimming or water. It can happen after a heavy day of work that involves a lot of tail action.

2. Exposure to very cold water or cold weather.
3. Lack of conditioning.
Overexertion seems to be a common precursor, especially if a dog is thrown into rigourous exercise when he or she is not in good condition. Gradually condition your dog to avoid muscle fatigue.

Symptoms
1. Limp tail. The tail may droop lifeless between your dog’s rear legs or it may stick out a couple of inches before drooping.

2. Difficulty sitting or standing because dogs use their tails for balance.
3. Difficulty finding a comfortable sitting position. You may see him shifting his weight from side to side. The dog may also be reluctant to squat to defecate.

4. Off food. Your dog may be so distracted by his pain that he might not feel like eating.

5. Dog may have raised hair near the base of the tail because of swelling.

6. Occurs after extreme activity.
Dead tail will show up soon after the triggering event usually within hours or overnight. Determine what factors caused the dead tail and avoid them in the future.
7. Good vital signs and dog is still eating and drinking normally despite the floppy tail. Dead tail usually does not hamper most dogs’ ability to function normally.

8. The tail shows gradual improvement over a few days.

9 Occurs after sudden climate change.

What to Do If Your Dog Has DEAD Tail

1. Check with your vet to rule out any other possible ailments. There are some medical problems that resemble dead tail:
• Tail fracture
• Lower back pain from a diseased intervertebral disk or osteoarthritis
• Infection or inflammation of the anal glands
• Prostate disease
2. Rest your dog until the tail returns to normal. And then ease your dog into any intense activity.

3. Give anti-inflammatory medication within 24 hours. Anecdotal reports suggest that anti-inflammatory drugs administered within 24 hours shortens recovery time. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are commonly used to reduce pain, though they don’t usually affect swelling.

5. To hasten recovery for competition dogs, visit a muscle therapist.

6. Keep bedding dry especially in cold, wet weather

-canineworks.com

Things You Didn’t Know About Golden Retrievers

 1. Golden Retrievers instinctively love to swim. They’re always up for a game of fetch in the lake.

 2. Golden Retrievers are often used on search and rescue teams because of their keen sense of smell and tracking abilities.

 3. They make great therapy dogs.

 4. Dudley Coutts Marjoribanks, also known as Lord Tweedmouth, developed the breed in Scotland during the late 19th century.

 5. They are considered to be the 4th smartest dog breed (in line behind Border Collies, Poodles, and German Shepherds).

 6. They’re the third most popular dog breed in America.

 7. They have water-repellent double coats that shed seasonally. (Brush your Golden once a week to minimize the shedding!)

 8. The AKC officially recognized Golden Retrievers as a breed in 1925.

 9. Presidents Ford and Reagan both had Golden Retrievers as pets while in office.

 10. They are known to take care of other animals, even cats.

 11. Golden Retrievers are known to become sad and even depressed when left alone for long periods of time. Experts say they shouldn’t be left alone for more than seven hours.

 12. They make great watch dogs, but not-so-great security dogs. They’ll bark loudly at strangers, but once they physically interact with a person, a Golden becomes more friendly.

 13. Goldens are a popular choice to star in movies and television shows because they are easy to train. (Air Bud, Full House, Homeward Bound and Duke from Bush’s Baked Beans commercials!)

 -Countryliving.com

In our quest to keep our dogs happy and healthy, we are always looking for products that are 1) Not chemical based and 2) that WORK! Dr. Mercola — http://shop.mercola.com/category/548/1/flea-tick — has a monthly topical product called “Spot On”, made to repel fleas, ticks and mosquitos. They also make an herbal repellent collar that lasts up to 4 months! Neither of them contain harsh ingredients, only effective herbal ingredients.

–Thank you to our friends and fellow breeders -Jeannine and Rebecca, who swear by these products and have brought them to our attention!

We’ve all been there. You’re taking your dog for a walk, enjoying the great outdoors, perhaps breathing in the fresh air. In that moment of distraction, it happens. Your dog has found something truly repulsive and is rolling around on top of it, paws in the air, thoroughly coating himself in whatever foul substance he’s unearthed.

Whether it is something dead, poop, or just one of those unknown, smelly things dogs find, you’ve probably asked yourself–and your dog–why on earth dogs do this. After all, dogs’ noses are incredibly powerful. Shouldn’t strong odors be overwhelming? Does he really think of it as doggy cologne? Where did this behavior come from?

Veterinarians and behaviorists are not entirely sure why dogs roll in smelly things, but they do have a few ideas. One of the most widely known theories is that dogs do this to cover their own scent, hiding from prey or other predators.

While this sounds logical, Pat Goodmann, a researcher at Wolf Park in Indiana, has studied scent rolling in wolves and has another explanation.

Her research suggests that wolves roll in scents they find particularly interesting, not to disguise themselves, but to bring that information back to the pack. Rolling in a decaying carcass, or even fresher meat, could be a way for wolves to tell members of the pack, “look what I found.” This behavior could make it easier for wolves to track down an abandoned kill, or just to trade information about their environment.

There could also be a social aspect of scent rolling. A pack of wolves may all roll in the same scent, according to canid behavior expert Simon Gadbois, perhaps to create a sense of togetherness or group smell.

Whatever the reason, one thing is certain: the last thing we want is to share the joy of our dog’s disgusting discoveries.

Behaviorist Sophia Yin has a few suggestions about how to prevent your dog from rolling. According to Yin, your best chance of stopping your dog from coming back from the beach smelling like dead fish is to have a good recall. Irresistibly stinky scents are challenging to overcome, but carrying treats or a desirable toy, and working on the recall command regularly can improve your odds of escaping an odorous situation. You can also scan ahead for potentially smelly objects, like poop, and distract your dog from them with a fun game or reward.

If all else fails, keep your dog on a leash in areas with known stinky treasures.

-AKC.org