All posts by supergoldens@gmail.com

Tips for Getting your Dog to Come to You – Every Time You Call!

“Come” is the most important word that you will teach your dog, and if it is trained using positive reinforcement and play, you are more likely to have a successful, reliable recall. Maintaining a solid recall is a lifelong training effort that includes enthusiasm, consistency, and most importantly, rewards – lots and lots of rewards!

 

Before You Begin:

Never use your recall cue to call your dog to you for something negative, such as a reprimand, isolation, to get their nails clipped, or anything else your dog finds to be negative. Always make sure it is fun and positive every time they run to you.

If you have inadvertently already been calling your dog for things that he or she considers unpleasant, then just change your command and start training all over so your dog learns that coming to you is the best thing in the world!  So, if you need to get your dog for something he considers unpleasant (such as a bath or nail trim), do not use your “come” command – just go get the puppy without associating a word with it.

 

Teaching the Recall:

Start slowly by practicing at home with minimal distractions and plenty of fun or yummy rewards, like toys and treats.  First, show your dog a high-value treat as you move backwards and say the dog’s name in a bright, happy tone. If the puppy runs straight to you, reward with several small treats.

Be very exciting and make the puppy understand what great fun it is to run to you. As he comes to you, give him several treats AND praise AND petting AND play.  Once your dog is running consistently straight to you, you can name the behavior (come, here, etc.).

When going outside to practice, there will be more distractions, so always keep your dog on a leash or safety long line until he has been trained more thoroughly, and don’t forget to use high value treats!

 

Collar Grabs:

Practice grabbing your dog’s collar when he comes to you, just before you give him the treat.  This will avoid your dog taking the treat and run away to play the game again. It will also make your dog associate a “collar grab” with a good thing and not something to run away from and avoid.

 

Reinforcing the Recall:

The key to success is building a great relationship with your dog.  You must try to be “Be the Very Best, Most Interesting Human Ever in the History of the Entire World” each and every time you call your dog to come.

Also remember to never, ever reprimand your dog after you ask them to come to you!  This rule applies to every recall and means that no matter how many times you call or how long it takes for your dog to get to you, he gets huge rewards once he gets to you.

Have your dog randomly check in with you many times while at play, especially with other dogs. Just call them to you, give them a treat and then release them back to play. That way, “come!” is not associated with leaving or being leashed.

 

–AKC.org

Keep Your Puppy Active And Out of Trouble With Stimulation And Exercise

A bored dog can be a destructive dog, and this is especially true of puppies that are curious, eager to learn, and may not understand what they are allowed to do. Physical exercise is important, but so is mental stimulation if your puppy is to be healthy, confident, and socialized. Think of a toddler who delights in running up and down the hall and is equally engaged playing with blocks or a puzzle. Your puppy is developing his cognitive skills, and mental stimulation and play will help him develop and will curtail destructive behaviors. Here are a few ways to keep him engaged and stimulated:

Play with your puppy. One of the best ways to stimulate your puppy is to play with him. Toys that challenge him to retrieve a treat, hide-and-seek, even a good game of fetch are simple activities you can do every day. Choose mentally stimulating games that you can play with your puppy.

Training sessions. Everything from simple commands and practical skills, to tricks or dog sports, stimulate and challenge your puppy. Keep training sessions short and fun. Avoid too much repetition; even the most eager dog will become bored. Make sure to give your pup lots of positive reinforcement, with his favorite treats. Break the treats up into small pieces that are easy for your puppy to digest. If you’re interested in canine sports, take our quiz to find out which one you should do with your dog.

Know the breed. You can capitalize on your puppy’s innate breed traits to provide activities and games that most suit him.

Most breeds thrive on having a job to do. Working, sporting, or herding dogs and highly active breeds may love activities like agility, lure coursing, herding, or rally. Even smaller dogs have inborn traits you can build on. Terriers, for instance, love chasing and digging activities.

Take him to new places and introduce him to new people. A walk through the neighborhood or a trip to the dog park gives him a lot of opportunities to see and smell new things, meet new people, and socialize with other dogs.

 

Most dogs have an innate need to be busy, and bored puppies will look for ways to entertain themselves. Lack of stimulation can lead to anxiety, frustration, and destructive behavior such as chewing. By devoting time each day to playing, walks, and training, you’re helping your puppy develop the cognitive skills and confidence that will make him a happy and social family member.

–AKC.org

What Dog Owners Must Know About Heartworm

Heartworm is a potentially deadly parasite that is transmitted only by mosquitos, which pick up larval heartworms, called microfilaria, circulating in the bloodstream of infected animals.

Dogs and other canids, such as fox, wolves, and coyote, are considered the primary heartworm hosts, but these parasites can also affect other mammals, including cats, ferrets, and, in rare cases, humans.

There are treatments available, but prevention is the wisest approach to dealing with heartworms.

 

What is Heartworm Disease?

The canine heartworm prevalent in the United States goes by the scientific name Dirofilaria immitis or D. immitis. It does not spread from dog to dog but requires an intermediary, the mosquito, to infect new hosts.

The worms enter their host through a mosquito bite when it is taking a blood meal. Residue on the mosquito’s mouthpiece carries immature worms called microfilaria (which are only about 1/100th of an inch long) from an infected animal to an uninfected one. The immature worms migrate travel through the bloodstream and, after about two months, settle in the right side of the heart, where they begin to grow.

They mature after six months and can live in the dog’s body for seven years, each reaching a length of up to a foot and constantly producing offspring. After about a year, a dog may harbor hundreds of these worms, although 15 is the average burden. The worms cause inflammation and damage the heart, arteries, and lungs.

 

 How Widespread are Heartworms?

The first canine heartworms in the United States were discovered in 1856, in the southeast, according to Stanford University. It is most common in the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, but has been reported in all 50 states, according to the U.S. Food & Drug Administration. It has been diagnosed around the world.

There are few habitable places that are totally safe, especially if your travel with your dogs, and it’s almost impossible to assess risk based on location. The American Heartworm Society (AHS) conducts surveys every three years of the number of cases reported by veterinarians and shelters throughout the country and produces a map of heartworm incidence.

Areas with large populations of wild or stray animals pose an enhanced risk, although even dogs who stay inside most of the time are not totally safe from a mosquito’s bite. Also, pets being shipped from state to state may introduce heartworm into regions where it was historically not a problem. After Hurricane Katrina in 2005, about a quarter of a million pets traveled from the New Orleans area to new homes around the country. Some brought heartworm with them. AHS estimates that more than a million pets in the U.S. are infected.

 

 What are the Symptoms of Heartworm Infection?

In the early stages, there will be no signs of disease. About six months after the mosquito bite, blood tests will reveal the presence of antigens or microfilaria, according to the AHS. Other blood tests can measure antigens secreted by the female heartworm.

As the worms grow and multiply, the following symptoms will become evident, increasing in severity as the disease progresses. There are four classes of infection:

-Class one has no symptoms or just mild cough

-Class two is marked by mild exercise intolerance and persistent cough

-Class three infection will result in greater exercise intolerance, abnormal lung sounds, weak pulse, syncope (fainting caused by impaired blood flow to the brain), decreased appetite, weight loss, ascites (swollen belly due to heart failure)

-Class four is known as caval syndrome, a life-threatening cardiovascular collapse, which is marked by labored breathing, pale gums, and dark coffee-colored urine, leading to complete organ failure and death.

 

Diagnosis and Treatment of Heartworm Disease 

If your dog is diagnosed with heartworm through a blood test, your veterinarian will use different tests as confirmation. These include:

-Radiographs to pinpoint abnormalities in the right side of the heart and pulmonary arteries

-Ultrasounds to show abnormal organ shape as well as wriggling worms

-Echocardiogram to see inside heart chambers and visualize worms

 

Once the diagnosis is confirmed, your vet will advise you to:

-Restrict activity because exertion will worsen heartworm damage. Crate confinement may be necessary.

-Kill adult worms—One drug is available for this purpose in the United States, Immiticide, manufactured and marketed by Merial. It is administered by deep intramuscular injection into the dog’s lumbar region of the lower back and is recommended for disease that has not progressed past class three. In addition, other drugs, such as heartworm preventives, antibiotics, and steroids. The AHS says that there is a form of treatment called “slow-kill,” using long-term administration of drugs (macrocyclic lactones) used in heartworm prevention. The AHS does not recommend this “slow-kill” approach.

-Surgery—In extreme cases, veterinarians will resort to surgery, physically pulling the worms out.

-Follow up with heartworm tests six months after successful treatment.

 

 Preventing Heartworm

Treatment for heartworm is very hard on the dog, consisting of a drug contains arsenic and can have some serious side effects. That is why veterinarians are so adamant about yearly testing and administration of preventative compounds—what scientists call chemoprophylaxis. These medications are also effective against other parasites, such as roundworms, hookworms, fleas, and tapeworms. Different formulations are available for dogs and cats, and it’s important that you do not mix these up.

Keep in mind that certain breeds, such as Collies and other herding dogs, have a genetic sensitivity to the drugs used in heartworm prevention. There are DNA tests to tell if your dog has a sensitivity to heartworm preventives.

Following is a list of some preventatives:

-Heartgard ®Plus for Dogs (chewable, ivermectin/pyrantel)

-Tri-Heart®Plus for Dogs (chewable, ivermectin/pyrantel)

-Iverhart Max® for Dogs (chewable, ivermectin/pyrantel permeate/prziquantel)

-Sentinel® for Dogs (chewable, milbemycin oxime/lufenuron/praziquantel)

-Revolution® for Dogs (topical, selamectin)

-Advantage Multi™for Dogs (topical, imidacloprid + moxidectin)

 

 

Sources: American Heartworm Society; Merck Veterinary Manual; Centers for Disease Control and Prevention

The Puppy’s Rule of Twelve

Make sure all experiences are safe and positive for the puppy. Each encounter should include treats and a lot of praise. Slow down and add distance if your puppy is scared!

By the time a puppy is 12 weeks old, it should have:

-Experienced 12 difference surfaces: wood, woodchips, carpet, tile, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, grates, uneven surfaces, on a table, on a chair, etc.

-Played with 12 different objects: fuzzy toys, big and small balls, hard toys, funny sounding toys, wooden items, paper or cardboard items, milk jugs, metal items, car keys, etc.

-Experienced 12 different locations: Front yard (daily), other people’s homes, school yard, lake, pond, river, boat, basement, elevator, car, moving car, garage, laundry room, kennel, veterinary office, grooming salon, etc. (even just to say Hi!)

-Met and played with 12 new people (outside of family): include children, adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, sunglasses, etc.

-Exposed to 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep positive and watch puppy’s comfort level-we don’t want the puppy scared!): Garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, babies screaming, big trucks, motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, shopping carts rolling, power boat, clapping, loud singing, pan dropping, horses neighing, vacuums, lawn mowers, birthday party, etc.

Exposed to 12 Fast moving objects (don’t allow to chase): skateboards, roller-skates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people running, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats, horses running, cows running, etc.

Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on, in, off, around a box, go through a cardboard tunnel, climb up and down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out a doorway with a step up or down, exposed to an electric sliding door, umbrella, balloons, walk on a wobbly table (plank of wood with a small rock underneath), jump over a broom, climb over a log, bathtub (and bath) etc.

Handled by owner (and family) 12 times a week: Hold under arm (like a football), hold to chest, hold on the floor near owner, hold in-between owner’s legs, hold head, look in ears, mouth, in-between toes, hold and take temperature (ask a veterinarian how to do), hold like a baby, trim toenails, hold in lap, etc.

Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: Wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper, coffee cup, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, Treatball, Bustercube, spoon fed, paper bag, etc.

Eaten in 12 different locations: back yard, front yard, crate, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend’s house, car, school yard, bath tub, up high (on work bench), under umbrella, etc.

Played with 12 different puppies (or safe adult dogs) as much as possible.

Left alone safely, away from family and other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.

Experienced a leash and collar 12 different times in 12 different locations.

 

  • -Positive Paws Dog Training 2002; Margaret Hughes

Human Foods Dogs Can And Can’t Eat

Dedicated dog lovers tend to be very kind people. We share our hearts and homes (and for some lucky pups, even the foot of our beds) with our canine pals. Surely there is nothing wrong with sharing our favorite foods with them too, right? Not necessarily. Many of the foods, such as fruits and vegetables, that humans digest just fine can wreck havoc on a dog’s body, causing severe health problems. On the other hand, some of the foods people eat can be introduced to a dog’s diet just fine, and even provide health benefits such as joint strength, better breath, and allergy immunity.

But before giving your dog foods that you crave, read on and learn which foods are safe and which can send your dog straight to the vet.

 

Human Foods

Almonds- No, dogs shouldn’t eat almonds. Almonds may not necessarily be toxic to dogs like pecans, walnuts, and macadamia nuts are, but they can block the esophagus or even tear the windpipe if not chewed completely. Salted almonds are especially dangerous because they can increase water retention, which is potentially fatal to dogs prone to heart disease.

 

Bread- Yes, dogs can eat bread. Small amounts of plain bread (no spices and definitely no raisins) won’t hurt your dog, but it also won’t provide any health benefits either. It has no nutritional value and can really pack on the carbohydrates and calories, just like in people. Homemade breads are a better option than store-bought, as bread from the grocery store typically contains unnecessary preservatives, but it’s best to avoid it all together.

 

Cashews-   Yes, dogs can eat cashews. Cashews are OK for dogs, but only a few at a time. They’ve got calcium, magnesium, antioxidants, and proteins, but while these nuts contain less fat than others, too many can lead to weight gain and other fat-related conditions. A few cashews here and there are a nice treat, but only if they’re unsalted.

 

Cheese- Yes, dogs can eat cheese in small to moderate quantities. As long as your dog isn’t lactose intolerant, which is rare, but still possible in canines, cheese can be a great treat. Many kinds of cheese can be high in fat, so go for low-fat varieties like cottage cheese or mozzarella.

 

Chocolate- No, dogs should not eat chocolate. This isn’t just an old wives’ tale. Chocolate contains very toxic substances called methylxanthines, which are stimulants that stop a dog’s metabolic process. Even just a little bit of chocolate, especially dark chocolate, can cause diarrhea and vomiting. A large amount can cause seizures, irregular heart function, and even death. Do not have chocolate in an accessible location. If your dog does ingest chocolate, contact a veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline as soon as possible.

 

Cinnamon- No, cinnamon is not OK for dogs. While cinnamon is not actually toxic to dogs, it’s probably best to avoid it. Cinnamon and its oils can irritate the inside of dogs’ mouths, making them uncomfortable and sick. It can lower a dog’s blood sugar too much and can lead to diarrhea, vomiting, increased, or decreased heart rate, and even liver disease. If they inhale it in powder form, cinnamon can cause difficulty breathing, coughing, and choking.

 

Coconut- Yes, coconut is OK for dogs. This funky fruit contains Lauric, which strengthens the immune system by fighting off viruses. It can also help with bad breath and clearing up skin conditions like hot spots, flea allergies, and itchy skin. Coconut milk and coconut oil are safe for dogs too. Just be sure your dog doesn’t get its paws on the furry outside of the shell, which can get lodged in the throat.

 

Corn- Yes, dogs can eat corn. Corn is one of the most common ingredients in most dog foods. However, the cob can be hard for a dog to digest and may cause an intestinal blockage, so if you’re sharing some corn, make sure it is off the cob.

 

Eggs- Yes, it’s OK for dogs to eat eggs. Eggs are safe for dogs as long as they are fully cooked. Cooked eggs are a wonderful source of protein and can help an upset stomach. However, eating raw egg whites can give dogs biotin deficiency, so be sure to cook the eggs all the way through before giving them to your pet.

 

Fish- Yes, dogs can eat fish. Fish contains good fats and amino acids, giving your dog a nice health boost. Salmon and sardines are especially beneficial – salmon because it’s loaded with vitamins and protein, and sardines because they have soft, digestible bones for extra calcium. With the exception of sardines, be sure to pick out all the tiny bones, which can be tedious but is definitely necessary. Never feed your dog uncooked or under-cooked fish, only fully cooked and cooled, and limit your dog’s fish intake to no more than twice a week.

 

Garlic- No, dogs shouldn’t eat onions. Like onions, leeks, and chives, garlic is part of the Allium family, and it is five times more toxic to dogs than the rest of the Allium plants. Garlic can create anemia in dogs, causing side effects such as pale gums, elevated heart rate, weakness, and collapsing. Poisoning from garlic and onions may have delayed symptoms, so if you think your dog may have eaten some, monitor him or her for a few days, not just right after consumption.

 

Ham- Yes, dogs can eat ham. Ham is OK for dogs to eat, but certainly isn’t the healthiest for them. Ham is high in sodium and fat, so while sharing a small piece is alright, it shouldn’t be a continuous habit.

 

Honey- Yes, dogs can eat honey. Honey is packed with countless nutrients such as vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and K, potassium, calcium, magnesium, copper, and antioxidants. Feeding dogs small amounts of honey can help with allergies because it introduces small amounts of pollen to their systems, building up immunity to allergens in your area. In addition to consuming honey, the sticky spread can also be used as a topical treatment for burns and superficial cuts.

 

Ice cream- No, dogs shouldn’t eat ice cream. As refreshing of a treat as ice cream is, it’s best not to share it with your dog. Canines don’t digest dairy very well, and many even have a slight intolerance to lactose, a sugar found in milk products. Although it’s also a dairy product, frozen yogurt is a much better alternative. To avoid the milk altogether, freeze chunks of strawberries, raspberries, apples, and pineapples and give them to your dog as a sweet, icy treat.

 

Macadamia nuts- No, dogs should not eat macadamia nuts. These are some of the most poisonous foods for dogs. Macadamia nuts, part of the Protaceae family, can cause vomiting, increased body temperature, inability to walk, and lethargy. Even worse, they can affect the nervous system. Never feed your dog macadamia nuts.

 

Milk- Yes, dogs can have milk. But be cautious. Many dogs are lactose-intolerant and don’t digest milk well. While it is okay for dogs to have a little milk, owners should be cognizant of the symptoms of lactose-intolerance and might want to stick to giving their dogs water.

 

Peanut butter- Yes, peanut butter is OK for dogs. Peanut butter can be an excellent source of protein for dogs. It contains heart-healthy fats, vitamins B and E and niacin. Raw, unsalted peanut butter is the healthiest option because it doesn’t contain xylitol, a sugar substitute that can be toxic to dogs.

 

Peanuts -Yes, dogs can eat peanuts. Unlike almonds, peanuts are safe for dogs to eat. They’re packed with good fats and proteins that can benefit your dog. Just be sure to give peanuts in moderation, as you don’t want your dog taking in too much fat, which can lead to pancreas issues. Also, avoid salted peanuts.

 

Popcorn- Yes, dogs can eat popcorn. Unsalted, unbuttered, plain air-popped popcorn is OK for your dog in moderation. It contains riboflavin and thiamine, both of which promote eye health and digestion, as well as small amounts of iron and protein. Be sure to pop the kernels all the way before giving them to your dog, as unpopped kernels could become a choking hazard.

 

Pork- Yes, dogs can eat pork. Pork is highly digestible protein, packed with amino acids, and it contains more calories per pound than other meats. Pork also may be less likely to cause an allergic reaction in some pets compared to other meat.

 

Quinoa- Yes, quinoa is OK for dogs. Quinoa is actually an ingredient in some high-quality dry dog foods. The strong nutritional profile of quinoa makes it a healthy alternative to corn, wheat, and soy — starches that are often used to make kibble.

 

Salmon- Yes, dogs can eat salmon. As mentioned above, fully cooked salmon is an excellent source of protein, good fats, and amino acids. It promotes joint and brain health and gives dog-immune systems a nice boost. However, raw or undercooked salmon contains parasites that can make dogs very sick, causing vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, and, in extreme cases, even death. Be sure to cook salmon all the way through (the FDA recommends at least 145 degrees Fahrenheit) and the parasites should cook out.

 

Shrimp- Yes, shrimp is OK for dogs. A few shrimp every now and then is fine for your dog, but only if they are fully cooked and the shell (including the tail, head, and legs) is removed completely. Shrimp are high in antioxidants, vitamin B-12, and phosphorus, but also low in fat, calories, and carbohydrates.

 

Tuna- Yes, dogs can eat tuna. In moderation, cooked, fresh tuna is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, which promotes heart and eye health. As for canned tuna, it contains small amounts of mercury and sodium, which should be avoided in excess. A little bit of canned tuna and tuna juice here and there is fine – prepared only in water, not oil – as long as it doesn’t contain any spices.

 

Turkey- Yes, dogs can eat turkey. Turkey is fine for dogs as long as it is not covered in garlic (which can be very toxic to dogs) and seasonings. Also be sure to remove excess fat and skin from the meat and don’t forget to check for bones; poultry bones can splinter during digestion, causing blockage or even tears in the intestines.

 

Wheat/grains- Yes, dogs can eat wheat and other grains. Dogs do not have to be grain-free; it is perfectly OK for them to have grains. In fact, grains like wheat and corn are great sources of protein, essential fatty acids, and fiber. If your dog has certain allergies, however, it might be best to avoid grains, but it truly depends on your dog.

 

Yogurt- Yes, yogurt is OK for dogs. Plain yogurt is a perfectly acceptable snack for dogs, however some canines may have trouble digesting it. If your dog can digest it, the active bacteria in yogurt can help strengthen the digestive system with probiotics. Be sure to skip over yogurts with added sugars and artificial sweeteners.

 

-AKC.org

Puppy Socialization: Why, When, and How to Do It Right

Socializing your puppy is key to ensuring you’ll have a happy, confident, and well-adjusted dog for life. Below, learn the best time to socialize your puppy, how to do it right, and why it’s important.

 

When to Socialize Your Puppy

From 7 weeks to 4 months of age, your puppy goes through a socialization period that permanently shapes his future personality and how he will react to things in his environment as an adult. Gently exposing him to a wide variety of people, places, and situations now makes a huge, permanent difference.

Also, it’s important to note that when you buy a puppy from a responsible breeder, the process can start even earlier. Gentle handling by the breeder in the first several weeks of your puppy’s life is helpful in the development of a friendly, confident dog. At as early as 3 weeks of age, puppies may begin to approach a person who is passively observing them, and having a knowledgeable breeder to encourage a positive experience with people is beneficial to the puppy’s adult behavior.

 

Why to Socialize Your Puppy

The idea behind socialization is helping your puppy become acclimated to all types of sights, sounds, and smells in a positive manner. Proper socialization can prevent a dog from being always fearful of children, for example, or of riding in a car, and it will help him develop into a well-mannered, happy companion.

Also, having a dog who is well-adjusted and confident can even go as far as to save his life one day. According to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, improper socialization can lead to behavior problems later in life. Also, the organization’s position statement on socialization reads: “Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.” If your dog becomes lost, the fact that he’s easily able to accept new places and people can better ensure he’ll be cared for until you locate him. And if something happens to you, he’ll have an easier time adjusting to a new caregiver or home.

 

How to Socialize Your Puppy

As mentioned earlier, your breeder will start the socialization process as early as the puppy’s first few days of life, by gently handling him and allowing him to explore his surroundings. But when the puppy comes home with you, the crucial socialization period begins, so it’s important to continue this process. Here are the basic steps to follow:

Introduce him to new sights, sounds, and smells: To a puppy, the whole world is new, strange, and unusual, so think of everything he encounters as an opportunity to make a new, positive association. Try to come up with as many different types of people, places, noises, and textures as you can and help your puppy be exposed to them. That means, for instance, have him walk on carpet, hardwood, tile, and linoleum floors; have him meet an old person, a young person, a person wearing sunglasses, a person carrying crutches. Think of it as a scavenger hunt. Here, find a comprehensive checklist for puppy socialization that can be used as a guide.

Make it positive: Most importantly, when introducing all of these new experiences to your puppy, make sure he’s getting an appropriate amount of treats  and praise so that he associates what he’s being exposed to and the feeling of seeing something new as a fun thing. Don’t forget to break the treats into small pieces that will be easy for your puppy to digest! Also, don’t be stressed yourself—dogs can read our emotions, so if you’re nervous introducing your puppy to a larger dog, for example, your puppy will be nervous, too, and may become fearful of larger dogs in the future.

Involve the family: By having different people taking part in the socialization process, you’re continuously taking the puppy out of his comfort zone, letting him know that he might experience something new no matter who he’s with. Make it a fun game for the kids by having them write down a list of everything new the puppy experienced that day while with them, such as “someone in a baseball cap” or “a police siren.”

Take baby steps: Try to avoid doing too much too fast. For instance, if you want your puppy to get accustomed to being handled by multiple people he doesn’t know, start with a few family members and slowly integrate one stranger, then two, and so on. Starting this process by taking your puppy to a huge party or a very busy public place can be overwhelming and result in a fearful response to groups of strangers in the future.

Take it public: Once your puppy is used to the small amounts of stimuli, move outside of his comfort zone to expand the amount of new experiences he’ll have. Take him over to a friend’s house for a puppy play date, on different streets in the neighborhood, and so one. At seven to ten days after he’s received his full series of puppy vaccinations, it’s safe to take him to the dog park (but be sure to follow dog-park safety protocolwhen doing so).

Go to puppy classes: Once your puppy has started his vaccinations, he can also attend puppy classes. These classes not only help your puppy begin to understand basic commands, but also help expose him to other dogs and people. Skilled trainers will mediate the meetings so that all dogs and people are safe and happy during the process. Puppy classes are available at many pet stores and through dog trainers.

Earn a S.T.A.R. Puppy title: Show off your and your puppy’s hard work by earning his very first AKC title—the S.T.A.R. Puppy, which stands for socialization, training, activity, and responsibility. After completing a six-week training class, your puppy can take a simple test given by an AKC-approved evaluator. The test items include allowing someone to pet him, tolerating a collar or harness, allowing owner to hold him, and more (see a full list of S.T.A.R. Puppy test items here). Also, the owner pledges to be a responsible pet owner for the duration of the dog’s life. This program is open to both purebred and mixed-breed dogs up to 1 year of age.

 

What About Older Dogs?

After all of this information on how important socialization is for puppies brings up the question “what about older dogs?” If you’ve acquired a dog later in life, you can still help him associate new or fearful situations with a positive experience, even though you’ve missed the crucial socialization period of 7 weeks to 4 months. Slowly reintroducing the dog to new sights, smells, and sounds, with careful supervision and an emphasis on positivity in the forms of praise and treats can help him overcome his fear or hesitation. (Severe cases of fearfulness should be treated with the help of a veterinarian and/or animal behaviorist.)

The AKC’s Canine Good Citizen test is an excellent goal for owners of dogs who received little training in their past (or even for S.T.A.R. puppies who are ready to take their skills to the next level). This 10-step test demonstrates that a dog can show good manners and basic obedience. From there, owners can go on to lead their dogs through the advanced CGC test, called Community Canine(CGCA), and/or the Urban CGC (CGCU).

 

-AKC.org

Three Reasons to Microchip Your Dog

If you haven’t yet microchipped your dog, hear us out. There’s a reason this process, which involves implanting a rice-sized chip between a pet’s shoulder blades, is so popular and highly recommended by veterinarians, breeders, and animal-rescue organizations. In fact, it’s even become law in Ireland, England, and Scotland for all dogs to be microchipped.

Below are three reasons why it can be an invaluable decision:


If your dog gets lost.

Don’t think it’ll never happen to your dog. AKC Reunite reports that one in three dogs go missing at some point in their lifetime. Unlike a collar, which can easily break, fall off, or be removed, a microchip is a reliable way to get your contact information—as well as vital information about your dog’s medical conditions—and increase the odds he’ll be returned to you if he’s found. Read tips on what to do if your pet goes missing here

 

If your dog is stolen.

We’ve shared the story of Waffles, a Cairn Terrier who was stolen and dyed black by a homeless woman to hide his identity. When the owner tracked the dog down, the woman denied Waffles was his dog. A microchip cleared up the dispute with a quick scan. 


If something happens to you.

An article in Wired detailed a writer’s story of witnessing an elderly woman get hit by a car while walking her dog. The woman, who was severely injured, had no form of identification on her, but a scan of her dog’s microchip got the hospital in touch with the woman’s family. Meanwhile, the veterinarian, who had cared for the dog for years, offered to board her while her owner was in the hospital. Let this serve as an example of how having identification for your pet is just as important as having it for yourself.

For more information on microchipping, see our explanation of the technology, here

 

 

-AKC.org

 

Your Adolescent Puppy and Changes to Expect

The most challenging time of raising a puppy is the adolescent period. Dogs become “teenagers” and seem to forget everything they have ever been taught. This period is individual to each dog, but it may begin when he’s about eight months old and continue until he’s two years old.

Adolescence does not begin and end overnight. However, some noticeable changes include becoming larger and stronger, as well as exhibiting “stubborn” behavior and a desire to begin exploring outside a previous comfort zone.

One common mistake is giving your puppy too much freedom too soon. Young puppies have an innate desire to be near you, and this gives owners a false sense of security. As your puppy gets older and more confident, he will likely no longer stay close by, and it may feel like any prior training has disappeared!

There are numerous strategies for dealing with dog adolescence, both before it starts and during this phase.

 

Train Your Puppy

While your puppy is still young, start training! Puppies are never too young to learn the basics of sit, down, stay, come, etc. You need to be consistent with this training throughout your dog’s life, but especially while he is very young, so he gains a good understanding of what you are asking.

 

Self Control

Start teaching your puppy to exercise self-control. Teaching “leave it” and “drop it” are great ways for dogs to learn self-control, and this transfers into other areas of your dog’s life.

 

Introduce Puppy to a Crate

Another important thing to remember is crate training. Using a crate gives your puppy a safe place to relax, and even as he gets older and the crate isn’t needed to maintain house-training, it’s still a great idea to keep it around to use when you need to prevent your growing puppy from getting into trouble.

Practice Obedience

As your puppy gets older, keep in mind that you should continue to practice the basic obedience skills so that your puppy doesn’t forget them! You should practice these behaviors several times a week and reward your dog for his or her efforts. Some dogs find food rewarding, while other dogs find toys and playing to be more motivating. Use whatever your dog likes best to reward him or her for making good choices, especially if he makes a good choice without being prompted. Maybe your puppy sits to ask for attention — don’t take that for granted! Reward your puppy for making good decisions like this, and he will continue to make those good decisions.

 

Puppy Chewing and Teething

Keep those puppy-safe chew toys handy during adolescence. You may think that teething ended when the adult teeth came in at around 6 months. But there is a secondary chewing phase between 8-to-10 months that occurs as the adult teeth settle in the jaw. Continue to puppy-proof your house, keep an eye on your adolescent, and keep enticing chew toys in easy reach of him.

 

Mental and Physical Exercise

Mental stimulation is important for dogs and puppies of any age, but it’s particularly important for adolescent dogs with a lot of energy. Help keep your teen dog from getting into trouble by providing plenty of mental stimulation. Activities like fetch, walks, games, obedience and trick training, puzzle toys, food-dispensing toys, and group classes are great ways to keep your dog’s mind active. A tired dog is a good dog, but a mentally tired dog is a great dog!

Although this is the most challenging time when raising a puppy, it is also the most rewarding. By training early and continuing to train, you’ll find the adolescent period is easier to navigate, and you’ll help the puppy become a well-adjusted, polite adult dog.

-Akc.org

Puppy Potty Training Timeline

House training, house breaking or potty training, no matter what you call it, helping your new puppy learn not to mess inside its home and crate are essential goals for all new owners. Want the quickest success? Get a crate! A crate is the best tool to assist in potty training your new puppy. In addition to having the right tools, establishing a timeline to follow will make potty training as routine as clockwork.

Wake Up!

Each day begins the same for you and your puppy. When the alarm clock goes off, get up and get your puppy out of the crate and outside to do her business. Don’t stop to make coffee, check emails or potty yourself. Keeping the crate in or near your bedroom lets you hear a whimper or a whine if she needs to go out during the night before the morning. When she is still little, you may be able to get her out of the crate and pick her up and carry her outside. This will prevent her from stopping and peeing on the floor on the way to the door. This is also helpful for the puppy that is not completely collar and leash broken. Establish this routine early in the puppy’s life, as it will last for the lifetime of the dog. 

After Meals

Another morning ritual will be breakfast. After you take her out to go potty, she will be ready for her first meal of the day. Try to keep this scheduled at the same time each day. This will aid in her regular elimination and you can set your watch to potty time. After the meal wait 5 to 30 minutes to take puppy outside after they eat. The younger the puppy the sooner you should take them out after a meal to potty. As the puppy grows older they will gain bladder control and learn to hold it longer each day.  Most puppies will have to poop after meals.  Also watch when they drink large amounts of water. If your puppy drinks a big bowl of water, treat this just like a meal, and take her out to potty soon afterwards.

After Playtime and Naps

There are a few other times that puppy will need to go potty beyond first thing in the morning and after each meal. These are naps and playtime.

Naps are mini versions of the getting up in the morning routine. Make sure that when your puppy is sleeping either in her crate or out on the floor while you are watching TV at night, that the moment she wakes up take her outside. After playtime is another time puppy needs to go out and potty. The stimulation of the digestive tract brought on by playtime will also give her the urge to want to have a potty break. Other clues that puppy needs to go out, and these can be very random, include sniffing the floor or carpet, wandering around the house, especially in rooms far away from the family, and whimpering. If you see any of these signs, take her out immediately!

Praise for Potty

Once you have established the routine of taking puppy out after sleeping, eating and playing it’s time to focus on what to do once you are outside.

Find a spot that will become the “potty spot” and always, take her to the same spot. As you approach her spot, give her a voice command or signal, to “Go potty” or “Do your business” then wait for the results. Praise lavishly for results! Say “Good Girl!” and then give her a yummy treat.

Do this every time you are outside (or if indoors using puppy pads or dog litter boxes) and soon enough the puppy will understand that doing her business as a result of your prompting to her spot will bring her lots of love and treats. Remember if there are accidents indoors, do not punish your puppy, simply clean up the mess and ignore the puppy. If you catch her in the act, say “Go outside” and pick her up to finish her business outside.

Many owners have great results by also placing a bell on the door handle where they always ago out to do potty. Puppies can be taught to ring the bell each time they want to go out. Again, ring the bell as you exit and praise the puppy once it starts to ring the bell on its own.

Leaving Home and Last Call

When you have to leave home for several hours and your puppy needs to stay in a crate during the day, remember to plan ahead.

How long can a puppy hold it?

Use the month plus one rule. Take the age of your puppy in months, add one and that is the maximum number of hours that your puppy should be able to comfortably hold it between potty breaks. A 3-month-old puppy plus one equals 4 hours that she should be able to stay in her crate without a mess. Just like when you wake up in the morning, don’t forget that the last thing you should do before you go to bed for the night is take your puppy out for a walk and it’s last potty break before bedtime. 

By scheduling meals, walks, playtime and other activities in a daily routine, you and your puppy will be your way to success in potty training. Good Luck!

 

-akc.org

Puppy Teething and Nipping; A Complete Survival Guide

 

Now that you have your new four-legged family member home with you, you may start to realize some of the challenges that come with a puppy, including how to survive teething and nipping.

Puppies’ mouths are filled with about 28 teeny-tiny razors that seem to be attracted to your fingers or toes (especially when you’re sleeping, we bet!). Although an annoying behavior, this is something that’s completely normal for teething puppies and something you can train away.

Puppies get their baby teeth at a much younger age than human babies—at as early as two weeks old, while the puppies are still with their breeder and their litter, those mini daggers start to come in. As puppies grow, they explore their world with their mouths (and when they come home with you at two to three months of age, they’ll have a whole new world to explore).

When Do Puppies Teeth Fall Out?

At about three to four months of age, puppy teeth begin to fall out making room for his 42 adult teeth (fun fact: that’s about 10 more than people!). This process can be awfully painful for your pup—his gums will be sore (anyone who has ever cared for a teething baby knows how uncomfortable this can be).

Once your puppy is six months old, his baby teeth should have fallen out. If any remain, be sure to tell your veterinarian. They may need to be removed by a veterinary professional.

View a complete timeline of puppy teething here.

 

What Are The Symptoms of Puppy Teething?

You might notice him drooling a bit or even little spots of blood on his toys, both related to teething (though if you notice anything unusual, talk to your veterinarian since both symptoms could also be related to a more serious issue). During this process, which is undoubtedly uncomfortable and confusing for your puppy, he’ll look for items to chew as a way to soothe those sore gums. The best thing you can do for him at this stage is to provide him a safe outlet to chew to his little heart’s content.

It’s extremely important to monitor your puppy during play and check the toys periodically to ensure they aren’t falling apart. Your puppy should not be able to chew chunks off the toy or pull pieces of fiber or stuffing from them.

 

How to Stop a Puppy From Nipping

Puppies naturally nip at each other while playing, and sometimes they don’t realize how hard they’re able to do this without hurting the other dog. If they bite too hard, another dog will likely make a loud yelp sound, warning the puppy, “Hey, that hurt!” You can teach your puppy this as well by making a loud, high-pitched “OW” sound if he bites you. Then, make sure to give him a treat or verbal praise for backing off.

After teaching him that biting you is painful, let him know what is ok to bite or chew. If he starts nibbling at your fingers or toes while you’re playing with him, offer him a toy instead. If he continues to nip you, stop the play session so that he realizes that biting is not rewarded.

Never hit your dog or otherwise physically punish him. If your pet seems to be biting out of aggression (not during a play), speak to a veterinarian about ways to deal with that behavior.

How to Survive Puppy Teething

When your puppy is about three to four months old, his baby teeth will start shedding, making room for about 42 adult teeth to come in. This process is very uncomfortable for the puppy—his gums will be sore as his adult teeth break through, and he’ll want to chew anything—everything—that will soothe the pain.

Your job as a responsible owner is to give your puppy something he can chew on to help make this process a little more comfortable. And by doing so, you’ll be preventing your puppy from finding something on his own to chew, be it your husband’s favorite pair of shoes, your new couch, or your children’s toys.

The best toys to offer teething puppies are made of hard nylon or hard rubber (like a Kong), especially ones that can be filled with water and frozen, which will feel nice and cool on your puppy’s sore gums.

Now the bad news: This age is also the time your puppy will start to go through some hormonal changes that may cause him to act out and chew more often than usual. Make sure you provide him with plenty of toys and teach him, through positive reinforcement, that he’s only allowed to chew his own toys.

Caring for a Puppies Adult Teeth

Once your dog has all of his adult teeth in, it’s your job as a responsible owner to ensure that they stay pearly white. Begin a healthy-teeth routine by getting your puppy used to having his mouth and teeth touched at an early age. You can purchase dog-friendly toothbrush and toothpaste (an enzymatic product is recommended as it works both mechanically and chemically to remove plaque) at a local pet store. Do not use human toothpaste—it can make your dog sick if he swallows it.

Good luck with your new puppy and enjoy guiding him through his important time in his life. Before long, the thoughts of him as a nipping, chewing little monster will be something you look back on fondly.

-AKC.org